We’re Enjoying: The Soul Of a Chef….And What Makes a Chef a Chef?

 

Last July when we enjoyed some R&R in the gorgeous Hawaiian sunshine on the Big Island, we both devoured Grant Achatz’s Life On The Line.  I read it in about 3 days, I think Gary read it in 5.  Thoughtful, funny, emotional and truly inspirational.  If ever you get down on your life, read what this incredible chef went through to not only survive, but survive to continue his life’s work as a chef, clearly rising to be one of the very best in the country.  A fantastic read for anyone who loves the behind the scenes world of a chef, or who can appreciate passion and drive, and how those two things can lead you to do amazing things.

Though not as tragic, but certainly as thoughtful, this trip I am reading Michael Ruhlman’s The Soul of a Chef: The Journey Towards Perfection.  Published over 10 years ago, this isn’t a new book by any means, but one I have been looking at on my shelf for a while and just hadn’t gotten around to reading yet.  I am partially pleased I hadn’t read it until now as segments of the book that may have seemed exaggerated in the past, I now understand and appreciate, seeing that his observations are completely spot on, especially when discussing The French Laundry.

The book takes you on this journey towards perfection, and what perfection for a chef really means.  Is it being able to demonstrate French technique flawlessly?  Is it running a successful restaurant?  Is it winning awards?  Is it a little bit of all of the above?  Or, is it, in the very simplest form, making food that tastes good, looks good and brings people together to enjoy?  The debate is still out on this, especially as we have moved from the world of humble, highly trained chefs who never dreamed of entering a dining room during service, to celebrity chef/restauranteurs who rarely cook on their line because they are schmoozing the crowd and to a time where anyone with a perky smile and a funny personality being able to get their own show on Food Network to demonstrate how someone might cook a leg of lamb or make a poached pear.

I cook….I cook a lot….I cook a lot for other people….I cook a lot for chefs….but I would never dream of calling myself a chef….I don’t even like to call myself a cook, rather would prefer an entertainer or as I have graciously been referred to, an accommodating host with the gift of hospitality.  I cook to make other people happy, it is a way I show how much I care, and one of the key reasons Gary and I have worked for so long.  We love to entertain, cooking for our friends and family shows our love for them.  And, I have too much respect for chefs, many who are friends, who have made their life’s work the art and craft of cooking.  Follow the jump for more…..

We’re Cooking: A Perfect Hawaiian Salad….Waimea Farmer’s Market Fresh

So we are back in our favorite place in the world (thank you June Jones), this time for two glorious weeks.  If we didn’t have phenomenal house sitters watching out little Yoda man I might feel guilty leaving him for so long, but we do….so we are soaking up the sun, taking some time to relax, de-stress and celebrate each other.

Saturday morning we did what we love to do….explored a few of the local farmers markets on The Big Island in Waimea.  Some people think going to local markets is just like a taking a trip to your local grocery store, but to us it is so much more.  I seek out local markets and farmers markets in every city we travel to; where else will you find the best, seasonal, fresh and completely local products, specific to the place you have travelled to.  And, it is also a great opportunity to meet the locals, hear their stories and experience something you may never otherwise try.

After taking the 20 minute drive, and 20 degree temperature drop, up to the lush green Waimea from our condo at the Mauna Lani we get to our first stop was the Waimea Farmers Market at the “55 mile marker on Highway 19.”  (An apt and spot on description.)

Not too big, but filled with everything from flower and plant vendors; local farmers with piles of fresh radishes, squash, baby lettuce and of course, avocados….Big Island avocados are some of the creamiest and most delicious around; coffee roasters; Thai and Korean barbecue vendors; even a French crepe and fresh tamale maker.

We meet David Touchet, baker and owner of Palani French Bakers, who tells us he and his wife have been on the Big Island for 10 years, moving from San Francisco where he worked in classic, French bistros.  Though most of his business is wholesale to local restaurants, he is a part of this weekly market every Saturday to sell to the locals.

We buy a fresh Sundried Tomato and Garlic Fougasse, which we will later toast with some extra garlic, tomato and olive oil….making our own type of Spanish tomato bread; a huge bunch of radishes and baby romaine from Honopua Farm, a family run, organic, solar powered farm in Waimea; and some Rincon Family Farm strawberries.

We Enjoyed: Cafe San Miguel

This past weekend we had a final dinner at a Henderson Avenue spot that Gary and I both loved, though admittedly hadn’t visited in a while. Cafe San Miguel opened their doors on lower Henderson Ave. about 6 years ago, when the neighborhood had really just started changing, and old haunts like Louie’s still packed in the locals for strong drinks and tasty pizza.  At the time, owner Hugo Galvan wanted to create an authentic Mexican restaurant bringing distinct and flavorful Latin and Mexican influenced food to the area.  When it opened it was one of the fanciest spots around.  Now, the area has become over run with trendy bars and night spots, hectic parking, and boozy crowds, making it hard for this family friendly spot to exist.  And so, with sadness, Hugo and his sweet wife said good-bye to loyal customers and old friends who popped in over the weekend to enjoy bowls of their amazing guacamole with house made corn tortillas and sip strong margaritas and Pomeritas one last time.

Though in our own hood, Gary and I hadn’t been there for a few years, but when hearing of their closing we wanted to say a farewell and a thank you, and enjoy one last meal at Cafe San Miguel.

Creamy, spicy, rich, made to order guacamole started us off, paired with a top shelf Margarita that Gary asked our server to create….and indeed she did, since we later learned the bartender had already said his goodbyes, while I had a lush, citrus filled, medium bodied Natura Organic Chilean Chardonnay. Over dinner we sipped a Mexican wine…when in Rome afterall, called Casa Madero Casa Grande Gran Reserva Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon.  A good food wine, filled with lots of bold red fruit, spice and leather notes, which we both were impressed with especially when pairing it with our spicy dinner.

Chicostillas

Chicostillas for Gary – slow cooked pork spareribs in a smokey guajillo sauce; and a steamy bowl of arroz con pollo (chicken and rice) soup with lots of kick from spicy salsa verde. Everything was delicious, fresh and healthy, with smiling service and thankful hosts.  So sad to see this neighborhood treasure leave us.

The up side, Hugo does have another spot in Fort Worth near University called Hacienda San Miguel, which he says is doing very well…..we may have to take a road trip to Fort Worth.

We’re Enjoying: Dinner at The Loon? Yep, Delicious!

Shrimp Cocktail at The Loon

For years we have been going to The Loon, the extremely popular bar just off McKinney Ave in Uptown known for serving strong drinks to anyone from the age of 21 to 71, and often a little of both any time of day except Sunday.  We were having drinks last week with the owner of The Loon, along with one of my favorite winemakers in the world, Walter Bressia.

Loon Cheeseburger

In from Argentina, Walter was in the mood for a great American burger, so off to The Loon we went.  Shame on me for not even realizing the menu they have at The Loon…yes, it does go beyond typical bar snacks, though you can also get a hotdog with the works, chicken wings and cheese fries.  But you can also indulge in giant T-bones and grilled pork chops, Genovese style pizza with eggplant, pine nuts and pesto, and a delicious Mexican style shrimp cocktail with jumbo shrimp bathed in a rich, tomato and avocado cocktail sauce that I swear I detected a bit of orange soda…popular in the recipe for shrimp cocktail made in Acapulco, Mexico.  All easily washed down with a strong vodka martini, tasty top shelf margarita, or an ice cold beer.  You’ve got to love The Loon!

Garlicy Tomato Bruschetta at The Loon

We’re Enjoying: Date Night…Parigi Style

Gary and I love Parigi, the charming Parisian bistro on Oak Lawn owned by our friend Chef Janice Provost and her partner, Chef Chad Houser.  The duo are champions of using local produce and products in their constantly changing, seasonal menus, ensuring that their happy guests are able to enjoy farm fresh flavors with a French and Italian influence.

Parigi Nightly Risotto with Blackened Chicken and Fontina

We stopped by late the other night after an event and settled into a cozy table for two looking into the kitchen, so we could enjoy the action, and ordered a bottle of  Carbella Pinot Noir “Plowbuster” from Williamette Valley.  Gary and I love Oregon Pinot and this was a new one for us, so we gave it a shot.  Just the right amount of earthiness with bold, rich flavors of ripe cherry, cola and blackberry….slightly more fruit forward than I am used to from Oregon Pinot, but lush, approachable and a great food wine with our entrees.

One thing I love about Parigi is that every day their menu options change on a few key things…their nightly fish, soup and risotto.  I don’t know any restaurant in town with rotating risotto, except Parigi, and it is always fun to hear the nightly description…one time it was a “3 little pigs” risotto with pork tenderloin, bacon and pancetta I think….mainly Janice likes to have fun with the combinations.  Tonight’s risotto was Gary’s pick…spicy blackened chicken with ripe grape tomatoes, fresh spinach and lots of fontina cheese.

Parigi salad with Lemley Tomatoes and Grilled Salmon

For me, a plate of farm to table fun with a twist. I was just going to do a salad, but their nightly fish special was salmon, and it just put me in the mood….so I doctored up a salad (as I often do) adding grilled salmon to their fresh greens with toasted pine nuts and a balsamic vinaigrette.  Additionally, a few of Mr. Lemley’s local, ripe tomatoes were requested, and some sweet and creamy goat cheese from Caprino Royale….can it get any better?  Simply stunning and delicious, just as we expect on any given evening at Parigi.